A Thousand Gates and a Hundred Flavours: Kyoto’s Spirit and Street Food

“Enter the Fox Shrine — and Bring Your Appetite”

Our final days in Kyoto brought together everything we’d come to love about Japan — beauty, order, mystery, and food we couldn’t quite identify. With sturdy shoes, curious minds, and slightly sore legs, we set off to conquer Fushimi Inari’s thousand gates and eat our way through Kyoto’s legendary market scene.

Bright and early, we set off along the river toward Fushimi Inari-taisha, one of Japan’s most iconic sights. Even at breakfast time, the area buzzed with energy. We stopped at a café by the railway crossing, where trains sliced through the morning crowds every few minutes. The scent of grilled food, incense, and excitement filled the air.

The approach to the shrine was lined with souvenir stalls and food stands, until we reached the famous Senbon Torii — the endless tunnel of vermilion gates leading up the mountainside. Each gate was donated by someone hoping for good fortune, and walking through them felt almost hypnotic. The dappled sunlight flickered through the red wood, creating a glow that felt both magical and meditative.

The climb was steeper than expected, winding higher and higher through forests and shrines. The crowds thinned, replaced by birdsong and the crunch of gravel underfoot. When I finally reached the top, I hadn’t realised I’d arrived until two hikers smiled and said, “You’ve made it.” I laughed out loud — part exhaustion, part exhilaration. Standing there, surrounded by stone foxes and mountain mist, I felt strangely philosophical. Travel does that sometimes.

Back at the base, we rewarded ourselves with snacks and a local beer. First up were Takoyaki — doughy balls with bits of octopus inside. We usually love octopus, but these… well, let’s just say they won’t be on our “must-try again” list. Fortunately, the King Fried Chicken stall restored our culinary confidence.

Later that day, we wandered into Nishiki Market, Kyoto’s “Kitchen.” It stretched for five blocks of pure temptation — pickles, spices, sweets, seafood, and everything in between. Signs politely reminded visitors not to eat while walking, so everyone stood neatly at the stalls, nibbling respectfully. We admired gleaming knives in specialist shops, rows of lacquered bento boxes, and the unforgettable sight of tiny red octopus skewers stuffed with quail eggs.

The market was a feast for the senses: sizzling sounds, fragrant steam, bursts of laughter, and the calm efficiency of vendors arranging produce as if it were art. As evening fell, the crowds thinned, and we wandered, reflecting on how much we’d seen and felt in just a few days.

Kyoto had given us temples and torii, food and festivals, laughter and grace — a journey through time and taste that we’d never forget.

“Sayonara Kyoto — Next Stop, the High Seas!”

As our time in Kyoto came to an end, we felt both humbled and hungry for more (in every sense). Japan had captured our hearts — and our taste buds. Next on our Encore Adventure: Yokohama, city lights, and the beginning of our cruise. But that’s a story for another cup of matcha…