Croatian Charms – Split, Hvar, and a Few Unexpected Bruises!

Croatian Charms – Split, Hvar, and a Few Unexpected Bruises!

We were surprised with an extra week of travel and decided to take a punt on Croatia, it felt like only a matter of a couple of weeks before we finally touched down in Split, Croatia. It was late, dark, and we couldn’t see a thing on the drive from the airport—so the excitement was all in the imagination.

Our hotel seemed lovely… until morning light revealed it sat right next to the maternity hospital. Although it had been quiet during the night, in the morning we were obviously next to a major hospital parking area with lots of movement and people in a hurry! 

Discovering Split

With the sun up and our curiosity awake, we set off to explore. Wandering down to the seafront, we strolled left along the coast with no plan other than to see where the day took us. Early swimmers were already out in the calm, glittering water, enjoying the peace before the party began.

As we walked, the path opened up into the beachfront bars and clubs of Split—silent now but clearly ready for action later. Giant speakers hung from the ceilings, waiting to blast the soundtrack of summer nights. We found a small café open for early risers, ordered our first Croatian coffee, and watched the town wake up.

After a quick breakfast back at the hotel, we headed to the port, alive with ferries, fishing boats, and locals on the move. Overlooked by the Roman remains of Diocletian’s Palace, Split was bustling and beautiful. We booked our ferry to Hvar for later that afternoon and spent the morning wandering the maze of ancient streets, where every turn revealed plaza’s and  another postcard view.

Lunch was a Mediterranean dream—a mixed seafood plate with crisp local white wine. Now the holiday could really begin.

Heaven in Hvar

The ferry to Hvar Town took just an hour, but as the island came into view, it was clear we’d arrived somewhere special. Terracotta rooftops, gleaming yachts, and the Napoleon Fortress rising proudly above it all—it was the stuff of travel dreams. We sat in the square, coffee in hand, soaking up the sunshine and the sea breeze.

Our first stay was at Golden Bay, a tiny cove reached by a bumpy taxi ride over gravel roads. Our room opened directly onto the beach—literally three steps from bed to sea. With a handful of loungers, a few hanging basket chairs, and a restaurant run by the charming Philip, it felt like our own private hideaway.

That evening, Philip asked what we fancied for dinner and the chef cooked it from scratch. Freshly caught fish, a bottle of local white wine, and the sound of waves lapping at our feet—perfection. The wind picked up later, adding a touch of wild adventure to our otherwise serene evening.

Morning brought calm seas and a swim before breakfast, followed by a walk along the coast to Green Bay, another idyllic spot with a stylish little hotel. From there, we doubled back toward Hvar, discovering hidden bays at every turn.

By the time we reached town, we were sun-kissed, salty, and hungry. I tried the langoustine stew, a local favourite, while eyeing a neighbouring schnitzel for “next time.” Another glass of island wine later, we strolled back to our little bay for a sunset swim and a light supper. (Very light. The stew was generous.)

Staying Put—Because Why Wouldn’t You?

We’d planned to hop to another island, but Hvar had completely stolen our hearts. So, we moved into Hvar Town for the rest of the trip. We wandered the narrow backstreets, found a restaurant with a harbour view from the “wrong” side of the building, and watched yachts glide in and out like clockwork.

Lunch was another mixed fish platter with local bread and the traditional potatoes and Swiss chard, washed down with—you guessed it—local white wine. We chatted with our waiter, who mentioned the hotel next door. Within an hour, we’d booked in for the remainder of our stay. As you do.

Each morning began with a swim in the harbour followed by a coastal walk. One day, we trekked all the way to Milna, passing Robinson’s Shack (sadly closed for the season the day before!) before stopping for squid and stuffed peppers at a beach café as you head into Milna. Not the best meal we’d had—but after a long, hot walk, it was just what we needed.

The walk back, however, was memorable for a different reason. Where the sea had washed away the path, I tripped and fell forward—thankfully cushioned by my ample bosom, saving my face from disaster! A kindly waiter later offered me a “miracle potion”—lavender oil, the island’s cure-all—which did wonders for both the bruise and my pride.

That evening we toasted my survival with a large beer in the town square as the sun set. 

Flavours and Final Days

Meals in Hvar ranged from rustic to refined. We loved the black risotto, a gloriously inky local speciality, and a hearty fish soup that rivalled any we’d had in the Med. Prices in town varied wildly—some meals were fantastic value, others more “tourist treat”—but always delicious with the right glass of wine.

We also made a day trip to Stari Grad, a picturesque fishing port and home to the island’s oldest building. The weather was a bit grey, but the bus ride there added a dash of local charm. It’s a place I’d love to revisit in full sunshine.

Eventually, it was time to say goodbye. We caught the ferry back to Split, sailed around the island one last time, and spent our final night in a converted apartment inside the old city walls. As darkness fell and the ancient walls lit up, it felt like the perfect ending to a wonderful, slightly wobbly adventure.

Would I Go Back? Absolutely.

Croatia charmed us completely. The flexible, go-with-the-flow plan worked beautifully, and we left with a list of “next time” adventures already forming.

If you’re tempted—go. Just pack a swimsuit, sturdy shoes, and pick up a little lavender oil. You never know when you might need it.

Encore Endeavours Travel Tip:

Hvar may have the glamour, but it’s also got heart. Take the time to wander beyond the main town—you’ll find the true magic of Croatia hiding in its coves, cafés, and conversations.

Have you been to Croatia what are your thoughts?

Have you had a last minute opportunity to go away? How did that work out?